Umber & Grain

Kitchen 12–3 & 6–10, Wednesday to Sunday

A dim dining room with a long timber counter, bentwood chairs and low pendant lights above set tables.

Table menu

Umber & Grain

Hearth cooking and stone-milled grain, served in small plates meant to cross the table. Prices are in full and include service.

Today from the mill — a coarse rye milled this morning, baked at four, and set out while it is still warm. It arrives with every table that orders from the hearth.

01

Small Plates

Ordered first and shared. Two or three per person is a comfortable start.

  • Warm Rye & Cultured Butter (v)6

    This morning's rye, torn not sliced, with butter churned from Thursday's cream and coarse salt.

  • Charred Leek, Hazelnut, Brown Butter (v)(n)11

    Whole young leeks taken close to the embers until the outer leaves blacken, then dressed warm.

  • Cured Trout, Buttermilk, Dill Oil (gf)13

    Cured four days in salt and juniper, sliced thick, with cold buttermilk poured at the table.

  • Hearth Onions, Aged Cheese, Thyme (v)10

    Slow onions cooked in their skins overnight, shaved cheese, a spoon of the roasting juices.

  • Smoked Aubergine, Sesame, Flatbread (vg)(s)11

    Aubergine smoked whole until it collapses, loosened with tahini, served with hot flatbread.

02

From the Hearth

Cooked over oak in the open kitchen. One per person, with a side or two between you.

  • Lamb Shoulder, Six Hours, Salted Plum29

    Shoulder cooked low beside the fire until it gives to a spoon. Served on the bone for two to pull apart.

  • Whole Plaice, Brown Butter, Capers (gf)26

    Grilled on the bone, basted as it cooks, finished with butter cooked to the colour of hazelnut.

  • Dry-Aged Sirloin, Bone Marrow Crumb32

    Aged five weeks in the cellar, cooked over the hottest part of the coals, rested ten minutes.

  • Ember-Baked Celeriac, Cider, Sage (vg)21

    A whole root buried in ash for three hours, carved at the table, glazed with reduced cider.

  • Hearth Chicken, Garlic, Bread Sauce24

    Half a bird brined overnight, hung over the fire, with bread sauce made from yesterday's loaf.

03

Grain & Garden

Sides. Sized to sit between two people rather than beside one plate.

  • Barley, Brown Crab, Parsley9

    Pearled barley cooked in shellfish stock, finished with picked brown crab and a great deal of parsley.

  • Bitter Leaves, Mustard, Walnut (vg)(n)7

    Chicory and radicchio in a sharp mustard dressing, cold, meant to cut through the hearth plates.

  • Potatoes in Beef Fat, Bay (gf)7

    Pressed, cut thick and fried twice in the fat rendered from the ageing cabinet.

  • Greens from the Fire, Lemon (vg)(gf)7

    Whatever is best that week, thrown straight onto the grill bars and dressed while hot.

04

Cheese & Sweet

The cheese board changes weekly. Ask which are close to their best tonight.

  • Three Cheeses, Oat Crackers, Quince (v)14

    Chosen from the cellar and cut to order. Crackers are made with our own oats.

  • Burnt Honey Custard (v)(gf)8

    Set custard with honey cooked until just bitter, poured over the top at the table.

  • Rye Bread Ice Cream, Malt (v)8

    Yesterday's rye toasted dark and steeped into the cream overnight. Tastes more of crust than of bread.

  • Baked Pear, Almond, Bay Cream (v)(n)9

    Pears baked whole in the falling heat of the oven after service, with cream infused with bay.

05

Pours

By the glass, poured 125ml unless stated. The full cellar list is kept behind the bar.

  • Skin-Contact Ribolla, Friuli11

    Ten days on skins. Dry, faintly tannic, good against the smoked aubergine.

  • Old-Vine Carignan, Languedoc10

    Served a little cool. The house red and the one we pour with the lamb.

  • Farmhouse Cider, Somerset — 330ml7

    Keeved and bottle-conditioned, still rather than sparkling, properly dry.

  • Sea Buckthorn & Verjus Soda (vg)5

    Made here, sharp and unsweetened. The best of the non-alcoholic pours with fish.

  • Roasted Barley Infusion (vg)4

    Barley from the mill floor, roasted and steeped. Caffeine-free and served hot after dinner.

  • Tawny, Douro — 75ml9

    Ten years in cask. Drink it with the cheese rather than the sweet plates.

Floured hands shaping a round of dough on a wooden bench beside a scatter of loose grain.
Shaping the afternoon rye, a little before four.

From the kitchen

What is worth knowing before you order

The things guests most often ask the floor staff, written down so you do not have to.

  • The mill runs on Tuesday and Friday

    We mill whole grain in the cellar twice a week and bake from it the same day. The rye on your table is between two and eight hours old, which is why we bring it torn and warm rather than sliced.

  • Prices include service

    Every price on this menu is the price on your bill. There is no service charge and no cover, and the team is paid the same whether you leave anything further or not.

  • Bring your own bottle on Wednesdays

    Corkage is waived on Wednesday evenings for one bottle per two guests. Please hand it to the bar when you sit so it can be opened and rested properly.

  • The hearth cannot be rushed

    Shoulder and celeriac take their own time and arrive when they are ready, not in course order. If you are eating before a fixed hour, say so and the kitchen will steer you to the grill instead.

How service works

Three things, then we leave you to it

Ordering here is a little different from a set-course room, so it is worth reading once.

  1. Order at the counter

    Give your table number at the pass whenever you are ready. There is no need to order everything at once, and you can add plates through the evening.

  2. Plates arrive to share

    Everything is sized for the middle of the table and sent as it is finished. Tell us if you would rather eat in courses and we will hold things back.

  3. Last orders at half past nine

    The hearth is banked down at ten. Cheese, sweet plates and pours continue for a while after the kitchen closes.